Roast goose isn't as popular as turkey for the Christmas feast - supermarkets sell just a few thousand geese per one million turkeys - but it's really worth considering if you fancy a change. It is truly delicious!
The flesh is rich and juicy, the skin is the crispiest gold, and the goose fat is like liquid nectar for the ultimate roast potatoes. Plus, goose meat is surprisingly lean, with 'heart healthy' monounsaturated fats.
Ask the butcher to prepare it for you: They need just to remove the legs and excess carcass, to chop up the wings and neck into 2cm pieces and to remove the wishbone (this makes the goose easier to carve). If you were to roast the bird whole, then the breast would be over-cooked, and the legs would be tough. So the preparation is key.
You may be a little concerned about the cooking time (or lack of it). Believe me, it has been tried, tested and tried again. Just make sure you allow your goose to come to room temperature for 3 hours before going into the oven.
A non-scented oil with a high burning point would normally be used for roasting potatoes, but the flavour and very high burning point of the natural goose fat lend itself well to this purpose. If you were to use your best extra virgin olive oil, it would begin to de-nature and turn carcinogenic at 191°C.
When you caramelise the bones, do not colour them too much, or the resulting jus will taste bitter and astringent. And remember, there is 2.5 hours of cooking ahead! The bones have two purposes: they serve as a support to the goose crown allowing the heat to circulate around to give a more even cooking. Often, the roast sitting directly on the bottom of the pan will dry out and burn. The caramelised bones will also provide a wonderful roasting pan jus.
The only way to remove all the fat would be to freeze the strained juices. This would cause the fat and jus to separate, with the fat being able to be removed from the top once it had set firm. However, a small amount of fat should be left in the sauce as it will carry a huge amount of flavour from the roasting process.
Recipe © Raymond Blanc 2018
Food photography by Chris Terry